What does a subterranean inspection check, in order?
It starts outside, moves to the foundation and crawl space, then reaches the structure and the moisture picture, and ends with a written account of what was and was not seen.
The order matters because the outside gives the first clues. Mud tubes and soil bridges at the foundation tell the inspector where to look inside. The soil level against the siding, the mulch and any stacked wood at the perimeter are noted, since those are the places a colony finds easy access.
Inside, the crawl space or the slab edge comes next. The inspector looks at the piers, the block walls, the joists and the underside of the sub-floor. Wood in contact with soil, or with a wet crawl space floor, is probed. Moisture readings show where the wood is damp enough to suit a colony.
The living space is checked last, at the baseboards, door frames, window sills and any wall where plumbing runs. The inspector may open an inspection hole in a closet or behind a removable panel if a reading is high.
Why does the soil side matter as much as the wood?
Subterranean termites live in soil and reach wood through it. A house that looks sound in its frame can still have a route into the structure through soil contact at the slab edge, a pier or a wall plate, so the soil side is part of the check.
A mud tube is a covered passage built by workers to keep their route moist and protected while they travel between soil and wood. A tube on a pier or a foundation wall shows that a route exists, even if the wood behind it looks clean. Tubes can be broken and rebuilt quickly, so a tube seen once is a finding, and a tube that comes back is a pattern.
Soil bridges are another route. Dirt built up against wood siding, a porch step, a wood porch post or a slab edge that has settled can connect the ground to the structure. The inspection records these and recommends correcting the ones that are within the owner's power to fix.
In Lafayette Parish the soil side carries an extra weight, because Formosan termites are established here. A plan that checks only the wood above the foundation is not checking the route that species is most likely to use.
What can an inspection not prove?
An inspection can find evidence and show the likely areas of activity, but it cannot see inside every wall, floor or hollow beam. A written report should say what was checked and what was not reachable.
A wall with finished drywall and a tiled floor can hide galleries from a visual check, and a probe can only reach the wood it touches. The report should say which walls, closets and floors were examined and which were not, because a homeowner needs that to judge how far a clean result goes.
Moisture readings are a snapshot. A wet crawl space after heavy rain may read very differently from the same space in a dry month, which is why the report should give the conditions on the day. A reading is evidence of conditions that suit termites, not proof of a colony by itself.
A clean inspection is still useful. It records the state of the house on a date, it names the risks and it gives the owner a baseline for the next check. That baseline is the most valuable part of a report for someone who will keep the house for years.
How should a homeowner read the report?
Read the findings, the limits and the recommendations separately. A finding is what was seen, a limit is what was not seen, and a recommendation is what the inspector thinks should happen next.
Start with the findings and the photographs. Each finding should name the location, describe what was seen and say whether it is active or old. An old gallery in a sill that has since been repaired is a different matter from a live tube on the pier.
Next read the limits. A report that lists no limits is a warning sign, because every inspection has them. Note which areas were not accessible and whether the inspector recommends opening them, and ask what it would take to open them.
Last, read the recommendations and ask about the order. Some recommendations are quick, such as clearing a soil bridge or moving wood off the foundation. Others are larger. Ask which items are urgent, which can wait for a later check and what the cost depends on, without expecting a figure on the phone.
What should the homeowner prepare before the inspection?
Clear access to the crawl space, the closets and the perimeter, and say which areas have had repairs or treatment in the past. Moving stored items away from walls is the most useful preparation.
Clear a path to any crawl space hatch and to the foot of the perimeter. Move stored boxes, cardboard and wood pieces away from the walls, because the inspector needs to see the foundation and the bottom of the framing. If a closet or cabinet hides a wall the inspector may need to see, leave it accessible.
Tell the inspector about past repairs, past treatments and any known leaks. A previous termite treatment, a replaced sill or a patched slab crack changes what the inspector looks for and where.
Note any sign you have already seen, with a date and a photograph if you can. A swarm, a tube or a bubble of paint in a specific place is much easier to check than a general worry.